Monday, 13 April 2015

I think I love Seville!

I AM MIGRATING like a cute little Canadian goose, to www.blollings.wordpress.com - please visit there for new posts A-THANK-YOU, Saz xxx

I think love Seville. I've thought it might be so for a while, but when I think about the city and having to leave tomorrow, I'm starting to realise how much its true.

It's those laughably beautiful landmarks and picturesque winding streets. The colourful sunsets, the buildings that seem to almost glitter under blue Spanish skies. I love the drama of flamenco, the vivacity of Sevillian locals who will work all day and spend all night sharing beers and tapas with friends. I love tapas. Deep fried aubergines with sticky honey sauce, grilled goats cheese sprinkled with almonds, freshly fried fish, grated tomatoes, and all manner of croquettes.

I love this city that has been drenched in history. Where authentic Moorish tiles creep up the sides of Catholic churches. Where Hercules lived. This city that has seen prosperity, violence and cruelty. Where Columbus set sail for "India". Where Jews and Moors were forcibly expelled by the catholic "reconquistadores" - communities who were kicked out from the homes and left beautiful and lasting marks behind them.

I love the heady smell of orange blossom floating through the streets in mysterious whiffs, creeping up on you when you least expect it. The glamour of the Plaza de España. The creepy other-worldliness of Cartuja island.

I love the Alcazar. And I love the palm trees! Tropical birds tweeting above you and stray cats lurking behind railings. I love showing visitors around the city and when they say "I think this is the most beautiful place I've ever been", I think, yeah, you're probably right.

When I walk through the streets I love to spy the Giralda peeking through the rooftops: the minaret-turned-bell tower that has become the symbol of Seville. I love the river that winds past parties of Sevillians drinking wine on Sunday afternoons. Cocktails on rooftops, bike rides on the riverside. The friendly man who sells me fruit. Cobbled streets, decadent courtyards and tiled balconies.

I love the bustle of the Macarena where children play out in the street til midnight. The conservative traditions and alternative cafés. I love the people I've met. I even love the virgens of Semana Santa!

So it is quite clear that I love Seville. And when you have to leave something you love - even to go somewhere else, to people you adore, to go home - your heart breaks. So it is with excitement and trepidation that I prepare to travel home tomorrow. But it's going to be okay because in Seville, when you leave somewhere or someone - work, a shop, a taxi, a lift, the hairdressers, when you go home after being with friends, when the plumber leaves after fixing the toilet - you never say "goodbye". You say "hasta luego".

So I say... Hasta luego Sevilla, nos vemos, ¿eh? 😘😘😘

Tuesday, 7 April 2015

Semana Santa in Seville

I AM MIGRATING like a cute little Canadian goose, to www.blollings.wordpress.com - please visit there for new posts A-THANK-YOU, Saz xxx
Nazarenos during Semana Santa marching with the Giralda in the background
Spring is fully under way in Seville, which means the streets are full of  trees in blossom and it smells INCREDIBLE!! The scents of Seville... from incense in Christmas to oranges in February to azahar orange blossom now... I've never know a city smell so great! Last week was Semana Santa (Holy Week), one of the most important and hotly anticipated weeks in Seville. People have been talking about it since I arrived in October, so I was very excited, even though nearly every person I know from Seville told me to "GET OUT DURING HOLY WEEK! ITS AWFUL!" It coincided with the visit from my parents so we went to have a look together. I got some great photos during Palm Sunday so thought I'd share them as well as some information about Semana Santa in Seville as its very interesting!

Monday, 30 March 2015

Parents Visit me in Seville

So last week my parents made the exciting trip to come and visit me in Seville! I was filled with trepidation, with their visit to me in Austria somehow still fresh in my mind two years after the event... but Seville is a wonderful city for anybody to visit so I was confident they'd have a good time.

I emailed them the week before to warn them that temperatures had been reaching 26 degrees and they should bring sun hats and a summery attitude. Predictably, the day they arrived it began to rain. They first went to Granada and think they trudged around a soggy Alhambra. I think it brought back bad memories of when they came to Cuba and it rained almost constantly for a fortnight: locals kept remarking how unusually rainy it was!

Thursday, 12 March 2015

Blollings cooks: fighting a sore throat

There's a nasty little throat virus spreading through the British contingent here in Seville. I've never had anything like it, my whole throat is swollen and it HURTS! Because its contagious I've had to miss work so that I don't infect the children I work with. I'm not a particularly strong person when I'm ill, I usually feel very sorry for myself, but luckily this isn't the kind of illness which makes you feel groggy or bunged up so I have managed to cook myself some food to keep my poor little strength up. So here I've got a Lemon Ginger and Chicken soup recipe, lemon and ginger tea recipe and stewed apple...

Wednesday, 4 March 2015

Thinking about being homesick: decided not to be homesick.

"Aunty Em was so good to me and I never appreciated it." 
Dorothy hits a low point outside the Emerald City.
I was browsing the internet this week, reading the budget food blog by A Girl Called Jack, and ended up on a website about frugal living and read this quote...

"I went back and read my blog. I saw a woman who lived in the sunshine and even if she wasn't smiling, painted a smile on her face and got on with it."

Now this was written by somebody who has crawled out of massive debt over several years of extremely frugal living and sacrifice…so basically not on a par with any hardship I've ever experienced. But the message still resonated with me. Looking back at my blog reminds me of the things I've done and the people I've met over the past couple of years, and the little moments I would forget otherwise. I've been so lucky to travel so much.

Friday, 27 February 2015

So you went to Carnaval in Cadiz?

Welcome to Cadiz!

Last week I wrote about my trip to Carnival in La Rinconada, 10km outside of Seville. Well this weekend marked the last weekend of carnaval and to celebrate we went to Cádiz, the capital of carnaval and (apparently) the only place where the dictator Franco failed to squash carnaval celebrations.

The most important thing about Carnaval is you have to dress up. I saw some American students on the train from Seville to Cádiz who had made very poor effort. One of them was wearing normal clothes with a Spanish football shirt on. I shook my head at her in disdain. I imagine she saw me... I say this because everybody on that train was staring at me. Due to circumstances out of my control, I was not sitting with my friends. Which meant I was sitting in a coach of people dressed in normal clothes, dressed like this...

Wednesday, 25 February 2015

Delving head first into Lent: SUGAR FREE

its me
I've got a sweet face and a sweet personality and a sweet tooth. But since moving to Spain last October its evolved into a small addiction to sugar. I went from never having snacks in the house to hoarding chocolate and eating it for lunch...eating spoonfuls of Nocilla from the tub with reckless abandon and more and more cakes a day. I ate so much sugar my teeth hurt and I think I almost turned into a giant iced bun. And so for lent I've given up naughty treats and added sugar including: chocolates, cakes, ice cream, fizzy drinks, honey, jams and sugar in tea/coffee/porridge.

Thursday, 19 February 2015

Carnaval in La Rinconada, Seville

In the UK this time of year usually revolves around Valentine's Day and pancakes. But this weekend Valentine's day barely even registered with me as in Andalucia, it is CARNAVAL!!!

I have a couple of friends currently experiencing Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro. But who needs Rio when only 20 minutes away from Seville is the small town of La Rinconada!?

Wednesday, 11 February 2015

Oh Granada, Oh Granada!

HI GRANADA! can you spot the Allyhallyambra?
This weekend I ran away from Seville and finally made it to Granada and spent two days living the Andalucian DREAM!!!

Cycling from Seville to La Rinconada

The duchess and I went on our first Grand Adventure today. (The Duchess is the name of my bike....its hasn't caught on yet - most people still simply call her "your bike" - but I've committed to the name so I'm going to back myself and keep using it). We've been on a couple of small adventures around town but today we decided to plunge ourselves into the exciting new world of intercity travel and I cycled to work!!!

Typing about this experience is more difficult than usual as my body is in complete melt down. I feel like my bones are crying. I am living in Seville but I work in a park in La Rinconada. The park is 12km away from my house: I know this, because my workmate measured the cycling distance on her phone. This is the same young lady who cycled to work last week and told me that the journey wasn't that hard. She strolled into work one morning, bicycle in tow, bright eyed with windswept hair and rosy cheeks. I asked her if she was okay and she said "I feel amazing." I looked at her and thought to myself "I want to feel amazing! I want to have windswept hair!". So yesterday after much deliberation I decided that today was The Day that I started my journey towards becoming the cycling goddess that I've always dreamed of being.

Sunday, 1 February 2015

Blollings cooks: Easiest ever and most delicious mojito lime cheesecake

DEAR READER: I AM MIGRATING like a cute little Canadian goose, to www.blollings.wordpress.com - please visit there for new posts A-THANK-YOU, Saz xxx
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Recipe for the easiest ever and most delicious lime cheesecake, that you can make with almost no cooking equipment.

Wednesday, 28 January 2015

Shopping in Seville: Flea Market, Calle Feria, Seville


Sunny Flea Market, Seville
One thing I never got to do during my last trip to Seville was visit the weekly flea market on Calle Feria. Its held every Thursday morning but, of course, I worked on Thursday mornings so was never free. One Thursday I did unwittingly wonder that way after work, and a little old man who was packing up the last of his stall yelled at me (in English) "YOU'RE TOO LATE GIRL!!!!" and then cackled. I was totally confused because I didn't know about the market and couldn't work out what he was referring too...

Friday, 23 January 2015

Me, Myself and my bike

DEAR READER: I AM MIGRATING like a cute little Canadian goose, to www.blollings.wordpress.com - please visit there for new posts A-THANK-YOU, Saz xxx

Dear friends/family/fans,

Today has been in important day in my personal development. This afternoon, I waddled into town and bought myself a bicycle. I bought my bicycle second hand, and when I bought it, I also bought a bicycle lock (to protect the bicycle) and a helmet (to protect my gorgeous face) and thrown in with the package I got a free bell! My bicycle is pink and white so that everybody who sees me riding it knows I'm a girl. My helmet is blue, because even though my I have a pink bicycle, I'm not girly. My bell as a bunny rabbit on it so I don't get lonely on my long cycle rides!!

I bought my bicycle at the same time as my New Friend. Apparently in Seville there is a massive flea market where you can buy very cheap bicycles that have been stolen off people. I didn't want any bad karma as I've only just arrived in Spain, so we stuck to our morals and went to a real shop where they had all sorts of wonderful bicycles that we assume aren't stolen. After shopping my New Friend cycled home and I had to stay in town. I was too scared to ride my bicycle at that point, so I wheeled it down the street with my blue helmet hanging off the handle and a smile on my face. I propped it up against a wall and took a photo to send to my fans. When I met a friend for coffee, I kept my bicycle close by the table, tucked safely away so nobody could hurt it. I love my new bicycle.

Thursday, 22 January 2015

How to get to Ikea from Seville

DEAR READER: I AM MIGRATING like a cute little Canadian goose, to www.blollings.wordpress.com - please visit there for new posts A-THANK-YOU, Saz xxx

You've just arrived in Seville in the deep mid-winter and all you've been given is a flanelette sheet and an extremely long pillow? Do you love bargains? Go to Ikea!

IKEA IN SEVILLE!!!!!
How to get to Ikea from Seville

Its not difficult to get to Ikea on public transport from Seville. You need to get the bus from Plaza de Armas. The M160 Sevilla-Gines goes every 20 minutes or so and

Catastrophes at number 7B

This is the view of Seville from my window! No Filter (lol jk)

It's not yet been a week since we arrived in Seville, but we've been on an emotional roller-coaster as we adjust to life in our new flat.

When we arrived, late on Friday afternoon, the scene was one of extreme jubilance. We are living on the seventh floor! That's five floors closer to heaven than I've ever been! Even better than that, our building is situated so that when we wonder onto the balcony - and when I look out my bedroom window - we see a view of the whole of Seville, from here in the Macarena right to La Giralda in the city centre, and it's just resplendent in the sunshine.We giggled and scuttled to and fro. We have a key to our roof terrace and up we went, marvelling at being out in the sunshine on a ROOF! In SEVILLE! IN SPAIN!

On the second day, everything came crashing back down to earth. Firstly, there's this fun aspect of Spain where loads of flats aren't connected to gas pipes - instead you have a massive metal canister of gas that you have to fill up/replace when it runs out. This (apparently) is done by little vans who drive around hitting metal sticks together and shouting "GAS! GAS!", then you have to hang out your window and wave and shout "OI! COME TO FLOOR SEVEN I NEED GAS!". When we arrived our gas cannister was almost empty, and there was none of these little gas men bumbling around, so we were a gas-free zone. So cold showers and no cooking. Then, our internet stopped working, which makes me anxious because and sad, and also made it a bit complicated to try to contact anybody else in our group. Contemplating our misery, I attempted to wash some manky old towels that we'd found in the bathroom, and all the electricity cut short and went out. No electricity ... no gas ... no internet... it was like living in the middle ages. Even in Cuba I had hot water!!!!!!!! I mean can you imagine our level of suffering? The pain? The inconvenience? The injustice!?

We had a little look at the fuse box, and there were a lot of switches and nothing was helping, so I toddled over the corridor and knocked on our neighbour's door to see if they had any helpful insights. You can say what you want about people from Seville, but they are friendly. A little old lady came out in her dressing gown, and immediately summoned a small hoard of helpers from our floor who spent the next half hour pottering around and poking things.

Its now Thursday, and EVERYTHING is working!!! We've got electricity - we've got internet connection - and I'm gassier than I've ever been before! Hurray! Even better than that, despite being January, Seville has that special feeling in the air of SPRING! I think its the combination of the sunshine, cold air and a slight breeze. It feels fresh and just like Sundays in April. So we feel all jammy and pleased with ourselves again.

Coming soon: the big Ikea idea.

A view from Las Setas/El Parasol, that we took whilst distracting ourselves from misery at home...


ALLLLLLL my love xxx

Saturday, 17 January 2015

New year new me (Seville.2)

Hello friends, fans and acquaintances!!!
I am writing this whilst on the plane to Seville!

Last year I flew with Monarch but today things have taken a turn for the worse and we are flying with Ryan Air. The Ryan Air experience seems to mainly involve the air stewards walking up and down the aisle trying to sell you raffle tickets and hot dogs and automated messages from Ryan Air telling us about the hot dogs and raffle tickets. I asked one for a napkin 50 minutes ago and she said she'd be right back but I guess she was inundated with requests for raffle tickets and hasn't found the time? I'll keep you updated.

You're only meant to bring 10kg of hand luggage on Ryan Air flights. I have 15 but nobody's weighed me so they have no idea! When I was boarding the plane I acted like my bag was very light so they wouldn't be suspicious, which was a real challenge. Thankfully I actually have an A Level in Theatre so at least I was qualified for the situation.

So I'm going to Seville for another work experience programme, this time with DSC Regen which is based in London. We've been doing Spanish lessons and training this week and we had to stay in London. Walking through London with all my luggage was a harrowing experience, not only because of the weight if it all, but because people kept getting up in my grill. I ran over two people's feet and one dog. People in London have a dead zombified look about them on the commute, even if you try to catch their eye and smile they just have none of it. I do like the tube though, especially the bit where you get to stand in line and beep your card, it makes me feel like I'm living in the future!!!

I'm travelling with a big group of people from all over the place. The programme is themed "Community Development" so we're all going to be working in organisations that are trying to save the world and stuff. I'm going to be saving the world by teaching Spanish children about the environment and conservation. There are a LOT of vegetarians in the group. For lunch I bought myself a mango and slaw noodle salad to try and fit in. It was disappointing. I feel this is going to be my fate for the next three months. New year, new me! Sarah version 2015!! Though, I think I'd find it hard to be totally veggie in Seville as the Spanish people have so many wonderful ways of preparing pig!

Here are things I'm excited to do in Seville:

(Finally) visiting the cathedral and the Giralda
Eating ice cream
Eating at.... La Azotea, La Brunilda, Cristina&Co, and lots of wonderful new places.
Seeing more flamenco
Meeting up with friends
Going to the modern art museum
Enjoying the weather as it gets warmer
Exploring new parts of the city
Not be robbed (TOUCH WOOD!!!)

Its a bit sad going back as most of my amazing friends that I had before won't be there. I liked them all because they never judged me for how much I ate, peed and listened to chart pop music. What if my new friends aren't as understanding?! What if they peer pressure me into listening to alternative music or cycling?! Its a scary situation but only time will tell.

Saludos for now, amigos.

Update: An air steward has just offered to sell me a raffle ticket again.

Saturday, 3 January 2015

I met my ROBBER!

If you know me, you've probably endured one story or another about how I've at some point lost something valuable and ended up in a weird and complicated situation as I try to get it back. It seems to happen to me on the regs, and I'm always only partly to blame! This season's ridiculous situation has just been resolved, so I thought I'd share with you the complex and emotional roller-coaster of...

THE MYSTERIOUS INCIDENT OF THE BLIND MAN AND MY PHONE

For the sake of accuracy, I should probably clarify that the Blind Man is the man who fixed my blind (he's not blind). One night about a month ago, I shut my blind (with *apparently* too much enthusiasm) and it got stuck. In a vain attempt to help me, my friend tried to fix it (with too much enthusiasm) and it broke in half. This led to me living three long days in darkness before I summoned the courage to tell my landlady, who told me I had to pay to fix it.

So she rang up the man (= the Blind Man), and he came to fix it. He wasn't blind, he just fixes blinds, and to be honest he wasn't really a man, he was a teenager. When he was done I paid him and wished him a happy weekend, all smiling and waving and seeing him out the house. Then, after he left, I couldn't find my phone. Now as I say, this happens a lot, so at first I didn't suspect the grotty little blind man, I just assumed I'd left it somewhere around about the house and I started searching. But when I couldn't find it in any of the obvious places I started to suspect Foul Play.

If you've ever had something stolen then you know its very upsetting, especially if you don't know if you've lost it or not. Especially when you're like, who would actually steal an iPhone 3? When you are working? From somebody's bedroom? Its just too risky, right? You'd have to be a total buffoon to do that. For some reason I'd assumed this guy wasn't a total buffoon, so I couldn't believe he'd steal it.  I searched for like two weeks and cancelled the phone and got STRESSED and cried a bit and then got a bit angry and wound myself up and said, right, I'm going to make my landlady call this guy and get my phone back! And then when I actually spoke to my landlady I totally chickened out because - and this is one thing I've learnt from this experience - I do not think I like confrontation. So I ended up having a lot of those conversations where you start out by saying "I THINK SOMEBODY ROBBED ME!" and you end by saying "well, maybe I just lost it somewhere and its my fault probably." Because imagine accusing somebody of robbing you and then finding the very same phone under your pillow three weeks later after he's lost his job and you've lost your dignity?

So finally I ended up at the agency who arranged my accommodation, and they rang the blind company (which incidentally is called La Casa de Las Persianas in Santa Cruz and I'm not going to recommend them or warn you away from them, I'm just gonna tell you the FACTS!!). The man at the agency told me I had to be 100% sure that this chico had stolen the phone, to which I replied, "can we be 100% sure of anything in life?" This was a question which had really been bothering me in relation to the phone loss. However the man at the agency wasn't keen to delve into any philosophical reflections on the matter. He rang the company and said "she is 100% sure he took the phone. She's going to report him to the police unless she gets it back today."

Now, I was doubtful about the whole thing but it turned out, two hours later I got a phone call from a lady with an Andalucian accent thicker than your mum's chest hair, and she said they'd "found the phone". Turns out that she was the owner of the blind company, and cute little boy who fixed my blind is her son. So instead of going to watch the latest Hunger Games film with all my friends, I ended up in the most socially awkward situation to date, which was waiting at a cross roads in Seville  by an old Roman aqueduct to meet the mother of the person who robbed me. How do you think I acted in that situation? Did I give her a good what-for? Did I question her morals? Did I insult her son? Turns out I hid all my valuables and then cheerfully said "thanks!" and smiled and ran away. Not really a Boss Bitch way to deal with things but at least I had the phone!!

I would have considered the whole thing basically sorted by then, but when I got the phone home and charged it, I realised that this BOY, who claims he "found the phone on the street", had thrown out my SIM card, deleted every single thing from my phone except for one photo of a vintage car (Weird.) and had been using the phone for his own Instagram, Twitter, Whats app, texts, games... basically everything apart from Facebook which he had left logged into my Facebook. He'd added his photos, his contacts, had been chatting to his friends and girlfriend via what's app, emailing his teachers and using his Instagram. The audacity!!! On MY PHONE I have what's app conversations between him and his girlfriend! I don't know why I wasn't expecting this, but it was like until that point I kind of thought he had just accidentally taken the phone. And when I realised he had purposefully taken it for his own personal use, I. was. so. mad! I had lost everything that made the phone valuable to me, including photos from graduation and one of my mum in a onesie with a face mask on. Those photos are irreplaceable!! And no, obviously didn't have them backed up. You know why? Because I'm a total buffoon!

And all this after how stressed I'd been, and how it had cost me money to cancel the phone and contact my family. The inconvenience!! The injustice!! And I'd PAID him for his services!  So I started to think, what should I do? I put a status on Facebook asking my morally rigorous friends, do I forgive or seek revenge? Only one person said forgive. Everyone else was quite enthusiastic about the revenge. But revenge isn't very Christian, and it's also probably illegal, so I decided to explore other options. My landlady was a bit worried about the whole thing, and volunteered to take me to the shop to get my money back for the blind repair.

This is how I ended up in the New Most Awkward Social Situation Yet... when we got to the shop, the mother was there again, and she was very unhappy. She pointed at me and called me a liar, which was frightening, and made me question if I was wrong or not. Apparently he'd told her this elaborate story of how he'd found the phone, and I think she had chosen to believe it, and there was such a mix up of the truth and confusing half-truths and lies that I was getting confused. But I reminded myself, its YOUR phone (actually, its my sister's lol) and he destroyed your intellectual property and presumably swallowed my SIM card! So I said that I wasn't lying, and she rang her son and he came over.

This was the best bit of the whole experience, because I got to tell him off. I told him all about how awful it had been, and he looked at his shoes and tried to give some chicken liver excuses that were total bullshit and I felt like I'd really got it off my chest. But he wouldn't pay me the money back, and neither would the shop owner. In the end I saw him a couple of days before Christmas, after I tracked him down on what's app. He gave me a bit of the money back and said he didn't have anymore, and I felt sorry for him because it's Christmas and maybe he needs to buy Christmas presents. Also he was acting a bit pathetic and he can't spell in Spanish.

Overall meeting my robber was quite a positive experience as I felt I could explain to him what he'd done, and maybe he won't do it agian. But I still have all his info on my phone...

THE MORALS OF THE STORY (For anybody who's made it to the end)
1. Don't leave your valuables out when strangers are about
2. Don't trust anybody

Tara

xx

Wednesday, 17 December 2014

Christmas shopping in Seville: Mucho Más Ke Market


Mucho Más Ke Market, Sevilla
Christmas shopping while you're abroad can be a biiiiit stressful, especially when you're like me and you find picking an ice cream flavour a terrible ordeal, meaning that picking gifts for other people is an experience more harrowing than the Hunger Games. Additionally is the major problem that everything you buy has to fit in your luggage to go home, which is particularly concerning seeing as when I came out to Seville my luggage was already 3kg over. My good friend here the other day was like, "I don't understand how you were over the limit!" This was probably in reference to the fact I wear the same clothes every. single. day. I really  blame the huge amount of moisturiser I have to lug around with me. 

However, Seville actually has a wealth of wonderful shopping opportunities, and I decided I may as well try to enjoy the shopping experience. So yoday i went waddling over to the other side of town to visit the "Mucho Más K Market" market, which opened in Seville today. Its meant to be an alternative to the average Christmas market. Seville is a pretty traditional place, but there is also a bit of a bohemian vibe here and there and there are a lot of young artists and craftspeople around and about.

The market hall is full of scaffolding so you feel like you're in the middle of a get-in at a theatre. The scaffolding is full of plants, which makes you feel like you're in the last section of IKEA where they sell bamboo and vases. Overall its a very pleasing effect. Its not a massive place but there's a small bunch of stalls selling your average alternative crafts, like quirky silver jewellery and indie illustrations printed onto every day items. Some things are slightly overpriced but I did buy a couple of things which MUST REMAIN SECRET as they may or may not be Christmas Presents!!!

My colleague told me about the market. If she hadn't, I don't think I ever would have found it. Its not signposted and its almost impossible to find (mainly because its in Seville, and everything in Seville I'd impossible to find!) If you want to go then I suggest you head to the indoor market on Calle  Feria. If you're coming from the mushroom, turn right just before that market. You'll end up on called arrayàn and the market is on the right.

#christmasshopping
#hohoho

Flamenco Nights: El Museo del Baile Flamenco, Sevilla


We decided to go to a flamenco show at the Flamenco Museum during VIP´s visit to Seville because one of my (many, many) mates works there. For a while he'd been telling us the show was really good, but I was wary of forcing VIP to go as you have to pay entry. But in the end, we thought it was a good cultural experience and couldn't be too bad...

The museum is the only one dedicated to flamenco in the world, and every night they have one or two performances. I'd been walking around all day and was suffering from what-I-call-a-life-threateningly-awful hangover, so I'd say my enthusiasm for the concert was LOW. Even so, when we arrived the space was so atmospheric I decided I better make the most of it and treated myself to large white wine. The museum is more modern than I'd expected, and the stage is in the centre of an indoor patio, surrounded by traditional arches. The audience sit around the stage so that wherever you are its very intimate.

They described the show as "Flamenco Moments", and I suppose its like a beginner's guide as it was very accesible and showcased a lot of different aspects of flamenco. There are lots of different types, but generally flamenco involves a guitarist and a singer, who clap and stamp rhytms along to the music, and then a dancer (usually female). Like most folk music, the songs and dances tell stories. When I first heard it, the voice really reminded me of Indian or Arabic music, as its very influenced by Andalcia's arabic history. 

They have different performers every night, and I don't know if we were just very lucky, but they were fantastic. The guitarrist, Diego Franco, did a solo in the middle of the show where he sat alone on stage, in the spotlight, and played some traditional Spanish guitar. Now this is going to sound a wee bit over-dramatic, but I literally had tears in my eyes because it was so good. It was just so emotive! The whole style of flamenco seems to really capture emotion and then express it. I was amazed by the female dancer, Rocio Alcaide, who didn't smile when she was dancing but looked like she was suffering some terrible trauma while she stamp-stamped her wooden shoes on the floor. It. was. amazing.

 We were all taken by complete shock, and were on the edge of our seats for the whole thing. I'm now so keen to learn more about flamenco and see more of it live. The museum has a mainly tourist audience, and I would like to see a show with Spanish audiences as I know they are much more vocal during the dances. This is definitely a must-see in Seville; I felt like I got a glimpse into the soul of the city.

The performers we saw were Diego Franco, Rocio Alcaide, Jorge Canastero and Juan Polvillo,


Friday, 5 December 2014

Best Tapas of Seville: Bodeguita Ojiva




Recently I've been telling myself I need to eat at home to save money. It hasn't been a resounding success. Yesterday I compromises by instead of eating in a tapas bar, I had a tuna empanada from a fancy bread shop and then went home and ate a bag of chocolate coins. (They were both delicious. No regrets). And today I was wondering back to the flat planning the lunch I was going to cook and just happened to find myself inside Bodeguita Ojiva ordering their special of the day...its friday so it doesnt matter, right?
This little bodega (just off Puerta de Carmina on Calle San Estaban) has often caught my attention on my way to work, as small chalkboard outside advertises its special Guacamole Tapas. I'd never ventured inside though, partly because I never meet my friends this side of town, and also because I wasn't sure whether to trust a place that has had the same "special guacamole" on offer for the entirety of my time in Seville.
In the end I was pretty impressed. Its a tiny bar, with cute chairs outside that just manage to get a dapple of sun despite being in one of Santa Cruz's narrow pedestrian allies. My seat looked onto busy San Estaban, but the hubbub of traffic and families walking home from school made me feel pretty cosmopolitan. When I ordered, the friendly waitress asked, "you want a beer with that, right?". And I replied, "yes. Yes I do."
What to eat: the hot tapas are different every day, apparently. Today there were three choices. I went for the Carrillada con puree de papas. I was expecting pork cheek but it tasted more like lamb, served with pureed potatoes. The meat was in a deliciously gravy with onions and, surprisingly, raisins. This gave it a Morrocan kind of feel. It was was really, really good.


Not so great: they do a choice of breads with different toppings and sandwiches. I obviously had to get the guacamole. It was very smooth, served in toast with chopped tomato and onion. Yeah, it was all right, but not worth going out of your way for. Next time I'll try something more unusual topping, like salmon orange and nuts.
I didn't save any money. The menu is £2.50 and up, but it was tasty food and stylishly presented.